I’ll describe a third of the 3 non-mulberry silks. Muga Silk: The pride of India, Magnificent Muga silk is known for its natural shimmering golden colour. Its production is confined to Assam, border areas of neighboring Northeastern states and Cooch Bihar in West Bengal. It is produced by the MUGA silkworms (Antheraea assamensis), which feed on Som and Sulu.
This golden yellow colour silk is prerogative of India. Muga silk was recognized as a protected geographical indication (GI) in 2007, and was granted a GI logo for trademark purposes in 2014. The logo has been registered with the Assam Science Technology and Environment Council. The most expensive of silks, MUGA is intrinsically woven into the cultural traditions of the people of Assam. The vibrant Sualkuchi sarees and mekhla-chaddars are the traditional items made from Muga silk. In recent times, fashion designers have found exciting prospects in using muga silk for developing new products and designs.
The use of MUGA yarn as a substitute for ‘zari’ in sarees is finding favor with reputed weavers.
I’ll describe first of the 3 non-mulbery silks.The Tasar. Eri and Muga are the other 2 non mulberry silks. Non mulberry silks are also called wild silks or Vanya Silks. Tasar Silk has 2 variations A) Tropical Tasar B) Oak Tasar Tropical Tasar: Tasar (Tussah) is a coarse silk copperish in colour, mainly used for furnishings and interiors.
It is less lustrous than mulberry silk, but has its own feel and appeal. Tasar silk is generated by the silkworm, Antheraea mylitta which mainly thrives on the trees Asan and Arjun. In India, tasar silk is largely tended by tribals in the Gondwana belt comprising of states like Jharkhand, Chattisgarh and Orissa, besides Maharashtra, West Bengal and Andhra Pradesh. India is the exclusive producer of Tasar Silk also called Indian Tasar. Oak Tasar: It is a finer variety of tasar generated by the silkworm, Antheraea proyeli J. in India.This silkworm feeds on natural food plants of oak, found in abundance in the sub-Himalayan belt of India covering the states of Jammu & Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Uttrakhand, Assam, Meghalaya and Manipur.
China is the major producer of oak tasar in the world and this comes from another silkworm which is known as Antheraea pernyi. Oak tasar (also known as temperate tasar) is mainly used for furnishing, dress materials and sarees. Bomkai, Paithani, Ikkat (tie & dye) and Katki are some popular fabrics produced using tasar silks. Bafta is a popular blend of tasar and cotton.Shawls and mufflers are also produced using a blend of oak tasar and other natural fibers like wool, cotton, etc Tasar fabric can also be printed, hand-painted, or, even embroidered into traditional sarees and beautiful dress-materials.
In fact, in India, it is said that a bride’s trousseau is never complete without a saree made of Tasar Silk! To know more about fabrics you may connect us at +91-99711 06200 or visit us at charu.org.in Do remember to watch my next video in which I will describe another non-mulbery Silk called Eri silk.
