Charu creation offers you the best clothing material available in the fabric market. Fabrics and designers are like two sides of the same coin. One doesn’t go without the other.
Like every fabric going through its journey from fibre to yarn to cloth, every design and every designer has its journey of blooming. Curious? Let’s dive in!
We delved into the coming through of one of the top Indian designers, Anita Dongre, the woman who gracefully broke a lot of glass ceilings and shrugged off stereotypes with sheer hard work and determination.
AND, formerly known as AND India Designs Limited, was her first brand, launched in 1998. Since then, she has launched four other Indian brands.
Safe to say there was no looking back for her from there on!
Born in a conservative Sindhi family and the eldest amongst six siblings, Dongre has been a strong pillar from a young age. She was the first woman in her extended family of 50 cousins to have started working and look how she aced it!
She didn’t just go off alone towards success. Her vision and ambition were backed by her younger sister Meena Sehra, currently the Product Head of HOAD (House of Anita Dongre), who oversees buying, innovation, and merchandising.
The brother Mukesh Salwani, on the other hand, is the Managing director of HOAD.
Dongre graduated with a B.com degree from Narsee Monjee and then from SNDT University with a Fashion Design degree from Mumbai.
She started humbly in the suburban area of Navi Mumbai with her sister and two sets of sewing machines and endless perseverance. Her venture started by supplying garments to stores where the first celebrity to buy her pieces was Dimple Kapadia, who took three cotton shift dresses designed by her.
Like every other entrepreneur, the first few years of her journey were bumpy and filled with multiple roadblocks. A shortage of income initially lead to no money for rent, which sometimes got her evicted and made her shift frequently. Hurdles being hurdles, the entrepreneur came through.
Indian Fashion Market didn’t have many contemporary options for the urban woman back in the day. Looking at the opportunity in front of her, Dongre curated a collection for the same and sent it out to stores.
When nobody believed in her vision and rejected her collection, she started off her brand in defiance and belief in herself.
There we have it, India’s first urban wear clothing brand for women.
Design in its original and most basic sense means a solution to a problem. The need for being clothed is solved by fashion.
Certain designer’s artistic endeavors forgo the comfort and wearability component of the garment. Their focus sometimes more and sometimes solely is on the aesthetic components of the garment. You wouldn’t see that in an Anita Dongre design, it’s a perfectly balanced blend of wearability and aesthetic.
Functionality always remains the key element with aesthetic given its due importance and presence. Quoting Dongre herself, “Design is about wearability and not just about the beautiful bodies on ramp”.
True to her words, she has curated AND around the concepts of comfort, luxury, elegance, and yet simply everyday looks.
With dresses, shirts, gowns, pants, tunics, jumpsuits and much more, AND caters to the urban women with mid-premium, contemporary, global designs with a price range of Rs. 1500 to Rs. 5000 which could drop by Rs.400 or Rs.800 at the End of Season Sales.
Anita Dongre is a name known internationally for her designs and good branding. AND’s USP of affordable fashion has stayed consistent with changing times and trends. In the spring-summer 2020 look book, the designs are created keeping comfort in mind.
Below, you’ll observe that AND is especially fond of waist ties. I believe it gives everybody room to breathe in, move around, and yet keep it chic.
In the above ensemble, the 3/4th sleeve length finished with a band at the end and the shirt- collar give it a formal look while the tie-up detail at the waistline makes gracefully hugs the body.
It takes your wardrobe a notch up on the style quotient while not over-doing it.
This design gives it a very earthly and calm
vibe, given the color chosen and the simple
design of a brown, sleeveless, cropped top with
thick shoulders, completing the look with a
wrap skirt.
This gorgeous floral jumpsuit offers the wearer
comfort and makes it easy to move around
while leaving an impression. The waist tie
accentuating the feminine body seals the deal
of comfort and fashion making it a good-to-go
Sunday brunch outfit.
Knots
Collars – be it a round, johnny or a shirt collar
Comfortable fit.
Practical
Aesthetics
Designer Label
AND checks all the right boxes for a thoughtful and comfortable investment.
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यस्य कृत्यं न विघ्नन्ति शीतमुष्णं भयं रति । समृध्दिरसमृद्धिर्वा स वै पण्डित उच्यते ॥ अर्थात जिसका कार्य कभी ठंढ, ताप, भय, प्रेम, समृद्धि,या इन सब के अभाव से बाधित नहीं होता, केवल वही वास्तव में श्रेष्ठ है। महाभारत का यह श्लोक, भारत के राष्ट्रपति द्वारा ‘नारी शक्ति पुरस्कार’ से सम्मानित, बाड़मेर की क्षत्राणी, फैशन डिजाइनर रूमा देवी, के लिए पूर्णत: उपयुक्त है।
नमस्कार, मैं आपका मित्र तुषार, अपनी कपड़े का व्यापार करने वाली कंपनी, चारू क्रिएशन प्राइवेट लिमिटेड, की ओर से आज की इस प्रेरणादायक यात्रा में आपका स्वागत करता हूं | राजस्थान के एक छोटे से गांव रावतसर मैं एक गरीब किसान के परिवार में जनमी रूमा देवी ने मात्र 6 वर्ष की आयु मैं अपनी मां को खो दिया | मां के देहांत के उपरांत पिता ने दूसरा विवाह रचा लिया | रूमा ने अपने 7 भाई-बहन के पालन पोषण का उत्तर दायित्व संभाला | वो समय भी देखा जब 10 किलोमीटर दूर से पानी भरकर बैलगाड़ी में घर लाना पड़ता था। परंतु जीवन की परिस्थितियों में सुधार लाने की भावना बालपन से ही रूमा में प्रबल थी इसी कारण घर के कामकाज को संभालने के साथ-साथ अपनी दादी से कपड़े पर कढ़ाई, embroidery का काम सीखा |
17 वर्ष की आयु में विवाह हो जाने के कारण आठवीं कक्षा में उत्तीर्ण होने से पहले ही विद्यालय छोड़ना पड़ा | रूमा को ससुराल में भी आर्थिक तंगी का सामना करना पड़ा। अब समय था रूमा के जीवन की सबसे कठिन परीक्षा का | आर्थिक तंगी के कारण रूमा अपने पहले शिशु का उपचार न करवा पाई और शिशु का निधन हो गया | इस असहनीय पीड़ा को राजस्थान की इस वीरांगना ने एक दृढ़ निश्चय में रूपांतरित किया | ह्रदय में भाव उत्पन्न हुआ जो मेरे साथ हुआ वह किसी और स्त्री के साथ ना हो |
आर्थिक अभाव के कारण किसी स्त्री की गोद में खिलखिलाते शिशु के स्थान पर मृत शिशु ना हो | वर्ष 2006 में गांव की 10 महिलाओं के साथ जुड़कर दीप नवल नामक एक स्वयं सहायता समूह बनाया। हर स्त्री ने ₹100 का योगदान किया और एक पुरानी सिलाई मशीन खरीदी | समूह ने कुशन और बैग बनाने प्रारंभ किए। रूमा अकेले ही बैग के ऑर्डर लेने के लिए एक एक दुकानदार के पास जाती, छोटे विक्रेताओं के पास जाती। प्रारंभ मैं समूह को अत्यंत कठिनाइयों का सामना करना पड़ा परंतु रूमा ने पराजय स्वीकार नहीं की |
वर्ष 2008 में रूमा बाड़मेर के गैर सरकारी संगठन ग्रामीण विकास एवं चेतना संस्थान के संपर्क में आई और रूमा के समूह को इस संगठन से काम मिलने लगा | रूमा के निरंतर प्रयासों और कड़ी मेहनत के कारण, रूमा इस संगठन की सदस्य बनी और आगे चलकर वर्ष 2010 में ग्रामीण विकास एवं चेतना संस्थान की अध्यक्ष, president बनी | धीरे धीरे और भी स्त्रियां रूमा के समूह के साथ जुड़ने लगी | न केवल जुड़ने लगी अपितु आर्थिक स्तर पर स्वावलंबी, self independent बनने लगी | और यह तथ्य राजस्थान के पुरुष प्रधान रूढ़िवादी समाज के लिए अस्वीकरणीय था |
समाज का एक अंग रूमा की राह में बाधा उत्पन्न करने लगा | रूमा की जितनी प्रशंसा की जाए उतनी कम | इस महिला ने न केवल इस रूढ़िवादी समाज का सफलतापूर्वक सामना किया अपितु इस संघर्ष में अपने माधुर्य , करुणामए व्यवहार, प्रकृति द्वारा प्रदान किए गए उपहार अपने स्त्रैन को यथावत, अक्षुण्ण रखा, घटने नहीं दिया |
इस संघर्ष का परिणाम यह है कि आज रूमा के समूह में 75 गांवों की 22000 हस्तशिल्पी महिलाएं सभी प्रकार के डिजाइनर कपड़े, home furnishing products, घर में प्रयोग होने वाले सम्मान, का निर्माण करती हैं | जो महिलाएं कभी दो हजार रुपे प्रति माह भी ना कमा पाती थी आज औसतन ₹10000 – ₹15000 प्रति माह कमाती है |
देहात राजस्थान मैं कढ़ाई अर्थात embroidery के विलुप्त होते भिन्न भिन्न प्रकार जैसे Soof, kharak, urvashi, Kachcha, pakko kaam, gudri को जीवंत रखने का पूर्ण श्रेय इस समूह को जाता है | विश्व प्रसिद्ध भारतीय एवं विदेशी फैशन डिजाइनरों हेमंत त्रिवेदी, Bibi Russell, Abraham & Thakore, Rohit Kamra, Anita Dongre जैसे अनेक डिजाइनरों के साथ काम कर चुकी रूमा के उत्पाद, products, राजस्थान की समृद्ध विरासत को विश्व प्रसिद्ध प्रदर्शनियों जैसे जर्मनी का Heimtextil fair, Singapore Craft Fair, London Fashion Week, Tribes Fashion Show, IHGF Noida मैं गौरवान्वित में कर चुकी है |
रूमा के अदम्य साहस और धीरज को श्रीलंका सरकार के शिल्प अभिमानी पुरस्कार, वूमन ऑन विंग्स नीदरलेंड के महिला सशक्तिकरण अवार्ड, World CSR Congress Award, 2019 का iWoman Global पुरस्कार, विश्व के 51 प्रभावशाली लोगों में अंतर्राष्ट्रीय सीएसआर पुरस्कार, the 51 Most Impactful Social Innovators award in Global Listings भारत सरकार का नारी शक्ति सम्मान जैसे अनेक अनेक पुरस्कारों से सम्मानित किया जा चुका है |
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Ananya is One of the Lakmé Fashion Week 2020 Gen Next designers. Ananya Modi Jain’s label ALL2DEFY identifies itself as an Indian transeasonal urbanwear label. Founded in 2018, ALL2DEFY caters to the youth of today, by offering transitional pieces that can get one from day to night, depending on the way one styles them.
Ananya is a bachelor of Fine Arts in Fashion Design-Womenswear from Parsons School of Design in New York and a Masters in Luxury Accessory Design and Management from Istituto Marangoni Milan. So let’s talk about Ananya’s Brand ALL2DEFY: From urbanised hoodies, windcheaters, bomber jackets, hoodies, joggers, bermuda shorts, biker jackets, sweatshirts, cropped trousers, waist jackets, vests, and wrap skirts, Ananya takes on a holistic approach when it comes to urban fashion. An blend of style, form, and function, ALL2DEFY’s designs juxtapose minimalist aesthetics, boundary-pushing proportions and construction techniques. ALL2DEFY stems from an idea to defy societal norms with a need to bring about a cultural revolution wherein the products remind consumers of their greater responsibility and role in the world.
Ananya’s Label is just not any other brand but a conversation with a subtle meaning attached to it. What is Anaya’a Label, ALL2DEFY’s USP: Ranging from a variety of knits and woven fabrics which are lightweight, to genuine leather which goes in some of ALL2DEFY’s backpacks and laptop bags, Ananya works with a slew of different materials that are all locally sourced. Bold and vibrant prints pose as a USP for the youth-centric label by lending a fresh twist to the garments by defying societal taboos via witty graphics. Built on the concept of ‘Make in India’, ALL2DEFY sources all its raw materials, including fabrics, from across India and is completely manufactured in Delhi. ALL2DEFY is a complete ‘Made in India’ brand. Ananya’s textiles, including her prints, colours and embroideries, are all developed by her in-house.
Ananya uses witty graphics. Even her embroidery is very eclectic; it is not Indianised in its look at all. She develops her embroideries in tandem with the prints that she is working on in the collection so it’s always in tune with the design language of the prints. She experiments a lot with functional detailing. One of her bestselling outerwear pieces has been a reversible jacket, wherein there is a print on one side and a solid colour one the other side. According to her, most of her customers today are actually interested in purchasing one piece of garment which offers them the option of two contrasting garments. Now, Let us talk about ALL2DEFY’s Market: Being in one of the first urbanwear brands in the Indian industry, ALL2DEFY falls in the bracket of affordable luxury which brings the two worlds of quality and style together.
Priced between Rs. 4,000 and Rs. 40,000, ALL2DEFY’s products are available online on the brand’s website all2defy.com and with multi designer retailers such as Curato, AZA, Ogaan, Azra, Nykaa Fashion, Como Collective, Jhelum Online, and Vesimi in Dubai. This extensive network allows the designer to reach multiple retail locations across India spanning even Tier 2 and Tier 3 cities, as well as internationally. Surprisingly, Tier 2 and Tier 3 cities form a major chunk of ALL2DEFY’s client base. A constant work-in-progress, ALL2DEFY is an urban wear brand possessing strong visual appeal communicated via quirky prints, with special consideration to the unique messages the youth of today may want to convey to the world. Ananya’s collections are designed to complete and complement one another, from one season to another.
