In my previous videos, I described fabric terminologies like warp, weft, selvedge, Grain & fiber. In this video, I shall explain the term Yarn. When there is more than one fiber interlocked, it is called yarn. A long continuous strand of interlocked or twisted fibers is yarn. Textile yarn can be made with natural fiber, synthetic or man made fibers.
The essential requirements for fibers to be spun into yarn include a length of at least 5 millimeters, flexibility, cohesiveness, and sufficient strength. Other important properties include elasticity, fineness, uniformity, durability, and luster. The process of making yarn is called spinning. Yarn can be spun by machine or by hand. Yarn used for weaving tends to have a tight twist, smooth surface, and lots of lengthwise strength. Yarn for knitting has a looser twist. All textile yarn is classified according to structure, or how they are made. In general, there are three basic classifications. Let’s look at each of them.
• Staple fiber yarns are made of many short staple fibers that are wound together to make yarn. This is the most basic classification of yarn. Most staple fiber yarns are made of natural materials.
• Ply yarns are made of one or more strands of staple fiber yarns. A single ply yarn is a single strand of staple fibers held together by twisting. Two- and three-ply yarns are made of two or three single yarns twisted together. Multiple-ply yarns are used for fabrics that might require more strength or fabrics that need a desired surface effect.
• Filament yarn is made of one or more continuous strands that run the entire length of the yarn. These are much longer than staple fibers. Silk is the only natural filament yarn. Most filament yarns tend to be made from synthetic materials created by mechanical or chemical processes.
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Warp: The woven fabric is formed by two sets of yarns – one is called as warp and another set is called as weft. Any fabric created on a loom will have a warp and weft thread. Warp threads are the threads that run along the length of the yardage or fabric.
Warp runs parallel to the selvedge (horizontal axis). The lengthwise (longitudinal) or vertical set of yarns in the fabric are called as warp yarns (simply warp)
Weft: The horizontal or transverse set of yarns in the fabric are known as weft yarns (simply Weft). Weft threads run from selvedge to selvedge. Or one can also say that weft threads run perpendicular to the selvedge or the horizontal axis. Nonwoven fabrics such as felt, vinyl, suede, and leather do not have warp and weft threads.
Selvedge: Fabric selvedge is the tightly woven edge that runs along each side of a piece of fabric’s lengthwise grain, which is also called the fabric’s warp. It is a “self-finished” edge of fabric which prevents the fabric from unraveling and fraying.
I described fabric terminologies like warp, weft, selvedge, Grain, fiber & Yarn. In this video, I shall explain the term Yarn Count and its measurement according to the Indirect of Fixed weight system.Count or yarn count is a numerical expression which indicates the coarseness or fineness of a yarn.
In other words, yarn count is a number indicating the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of the yarn. There are mainly two systems or ways of yarn count measurement, these are :(a) Indirect System / Fixed weight system ( length per unit mass )(b) Direct system / Fixed length system( mass per unit length )Indirect system of yarn count measurement:
The indirect system or fixed weight system is the yarn count system where the count of a yarn is calculated by measuring the length of a fixed / definite mass. In this system, the count of yarn is the number of length units in one weight unit.
So, the count number indicates the length per unit mass of the yarn. That is why, higher the count, finer the yarn. In indirect count system, the mass of yarn is fixed and the length of yarn varies according to its fineness. This system is widely used for measuring count of cotton yarns.
The formula to calculate yarn count in indirect system is simple. It is calculated by dividing variable length of the yarn by fixed mass of the yarn. Some of the most commonly used indirect systems include : 1)English cotton count (Ne) system, 2) Metric count (Nm) system, 3) Worsted count (NeK) system,4) Woollen count system.
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